Paya means feet, and the dish is exactly that: trotters slow-cooked in a spiced broth until the meat falls from the bone and the gravy turns rich and sticky. It is a winter breakfast across Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, eaten hot with naan.
Paya at a glance
- Paya means feet or legs in Urdu and Hindi
- It is made with goat, lamb or beef trotters
- Traditionally it was cooked slowly overnight, ready for the morning
- It is usually eaten for breakfast, especially in winter, with naan
- Siri paya is a version made with the head as well as the trotters
What is paya?
Paya is a slow-cooked stew of trotters. Mutton paya uses lamb or goat trotters, and there are beef versions too. The trotters have little meat but plenty of collagen, and hours of gentle cooking turn that into a broth that is thick, glossy and sticky on the lips. The spices are warming rather than fiery.
Traditionally the pot was left on low coals through the night so the paya was ready at dawn. Today most people use a pressure cooker, which cuts the time right down.
Why paya takes so long
Trotters are mostly skin, tendon and bone. They need a long, gentle simmer to go soft. Rush it and the broth stays thin and the meat stays chewy. Give it time and the trotters turn tender and gelatinous, and that is what gives paya its body.
How Aamna makes mutton paya
- Clean the trotters. Soak them for an hour in salted water, then rinse well.
- Build the base. Onions go golden in oil and ghee.
- Spice it. Black and green cardamom, cloves, fennel and coriander seeds go in with Kashmiri chilli and garam masala.
- Simmer low. About three hours on a gentle heat, or about an hour in a pressure cooker. Skim off any foam early on.
- Thicken. A little flour paste at the end gives the broth extra body.
Mutton Paya
Mutton trotters slow-cooked in a rich, spiced broth until soft and gelatinous. A warming breakfast or winter meal.
The full method is in her mutton paya recipe.
Paya, siri paya and nihari
These three often turn up together at breakfast.
- Paya is trotters in a spiced broth.
- Siri paya adds the head to the pot, and is seen as a special treat.
- Nihari is a slow-cooked stew made with shank rather than trotters, with its own spice blend. Try Aamna’s nihari with lamb shanks.
How to eat paya
Serve it piping hot in a bowl with naan for dipping, and put out sliced fresh ginger, green chillies and coriander so everyone can finish their own. Plain rice works too, and mini keema parathas make it a feast.
Buying trotters in the UK
Halal butchers usually sell lamb or goat trotters, often already cleaned. Ask them to cut them into pieces for you.
Paya FAQs
What is paya in English?
Trotters or feet. Mutton paya is lamb or goat trotters, and beef paya is made with beef trotters.
What does paya taste like?
Rich and meaty, with a thick, silky broth and warm spices. The meat is soft and comes away from the bone easily.
Why is paya eaten in winter?
It is hot, rich and filling, which makes it a warming breakfast on cold mornings.
How long does paya take to cook?
About three hours on a low simmer, or about an hour in a pressure cooker, plus an hour to soak the trotters first.
What is the difference between paya and nihari?
Paya is made with trotters. Nihari is made with shank or other slow-cooking cuts and has its own spice mix.
