Nihari is a slow-cooked stew of beef or lamb shank in a rich, spiced gravy, finished with a layer of red, chilli-tinted ghee. Its name comes from the Arabic for morning, because it was eaten after dawn prayers. Today it is one of the best-loved dishes in Pakistan, especially in Karachi, and a weekend treat in British Pakistani homes.
Nihari at a glance
- The name comes from nahar, the Arabic word for morning
- It was a Mughal breakfast, eaten after the dawn prayer
- It is made with shank of beef, lamb or mutton, cooked for hours with bone marrow and spices
- Old Delhi and Lucknow both claim it. After 1947 it became a Karachi favourite
- It is eaten with naan, and finished with ginger, green chillies and lemon
What is nihari?
Nihari is shank meat cooked very slowly, traditionally overnight, until it falls off the bone and the gravy turns silky from the bone marrow and connective tissue. The spice mix is warm and aromatic, with fennel, long pepper, nutmeg and mace. Just before serving, the gravy is thickened with a little flour and topped with hot ghee and chilli.
What is nihari in English?
There isn’t a direct English name. The closest description is a slow-cooked spiced shank stew, or a morning stew, since that is what the name means. Beef nihari and mutton nihari are the most common, and lamb shank works well at home.
Where does nihari come from?
Nihari began in the Mughal era, either in Old Delhi or in Lucknow, as a hearty breakfast for the nobility after the dawn prayer. Some nihari shops keep a little of each day’s pot to add to the next, a portion called taar. After Partition in 1947, Urdu-speaking families who moved to Karachi brought it with them, and it became one of the city’s signature dishes before spreading across Pakistan.
What is nihari made of?
- Shank. Beef, lamb or mutton, on the bone for flavour and marrow.
- Onions. Fried golden for a sweet, deep base.
- Nihari masala. A blend of whole spices such as fennel, long pepper, nutmeg, mace, star anise, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon.
- Flour paste. Stirred in at the end to thicken the gravy.
- Tadka. Hot ghee with Kashmiri chilli poured over at the end for colour.
- Garnish. Fresh ginger, green chillies, red onion and lemon.
How Aamna makes nihari
Aamna uses lamb shanks and grinds her own nihari masala, with long pepper, nutmeg, mace, fennel and star anise. The shanks are marinated with Kashmiri chilli and spices, seared, then simmered with golden onions for about two hours. A flour paste thickens the gravy, and a ghee and Kashmiri chilli tadka goes over the top before serving.
Nihari with Tender Lamb Shanks
Lamb shanks slow-cooked in a rich, spiced gravy until they fall off the bone. Warming comfort food for cold days.
The full method is in her nihari with tender lamb shanks. It takes about 2 hours 20 minutes.
How to eat nihari
Serve it in a deep bowl with naan for dipping. Put out fresh ginger, sliced green chillies, fried or raw onion, coriander and lemon wedges so everyone can finish their own. In Pakistan it is a weekend breakfast, and in Britain it works just as well as a Sunday lunch.
Nihari vs paya
Both are slow-cooked breakfast dishes, and they often share a table. Nihari is made with shank and has a thick, spiced gravy. Paya is made with trotters and has a thinner, sticky broth. Read more in what is paya?
Nihari FAQs
Is nihari spicy?
It is warming and moderately spicy. The heat is easy to adjust: Aamna suggests doubling the chilli powders in the marinade for more.
What meat is used for nihari?
Beef shank is very popular in Pakistan. Lamb or mutton shank works well and is easy to find in the UK.
Why is nihari eaten for breakfast?
It was first eaten after the dawn prayer, and the name itself means morning.
Can I make nihari in a slow cooker?
Yes. Brown the onions and meat first, then slow cook until tender, and thicken with the flour paste at the end.
What is nihari masala?
A blend of whole spices ground together. Aamna’s includes fennel, cumin, nutmeg, mace, long pepper, star anise, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon.