Rogan josh is a red curry from Kashmir, traditionally made with lamb or mutton. Its deep colour comes from Kashmiri chilli, which is more about colour than heat, and its warmth from whole spices like cardamom, fennel and cinnamon. It is one of Britain’s favourite curries, and one of the few with a real history behind it.
Rogan josh at a glance
- Rogan josh comes from Kashmir and is linked with the Mughals
- It is traditionally lamb, mutton or goat, cooked slowly with yoghurt and whole spices
- The red colour comes from Kashmiri chilli and, traditionally, ratan jot, a natural red dye from a root
- It is medium heat: red does not mean hot
- Also spelt roghan josh
What is rogan josh?
Rogan josh is meat braised in a spiced sauce until tender, finished with a layer of red, fragrant oil. It is part of Kashmiri cooking and closely linked with the Mughal kitchens. It is usually made with lamb, mutton or goat, cooked slowly so the meat becomes soft and the spices soak in.
What does rogan josh mean?
Nobody is completely sure. One explanation is that rogan means oil or ghee in Persian and josh means to stew, so the name means stewed in fat. Another says rogan means red in Kashmiri. Either way, the dish is known for its red, glossy oil.
What does rogan josh taste like?
Rich, aromatic and warming rather than fiery. Black cardamom gives a smoky note, fennel a gentle sweetness, and yoghurt a soft tang. The heat is medium. It is spicier than a korma but milder than a madras.
Why is rogan josh red?
Traditionally from two things: Kashmiri chillies, which are deep red but fairly mild, and ratan jot, the root of the alkanet plant, which colours the oil. Many British curry houses use tomatoes and red peppers to get the colour instead. Aamna’s versions don’t use tomatoes at all. She gets the colour from plenty of Kashmiri chilli.
Different kinds of rogan josh
- Kashmiri Pandit rogan josh. Made by Kashmiri Hindu families without onion or garlic, using yoghurt and asafoetida instead.
- Kashmiri Muslim rogan josh. Uses onions or shallots and garlic, and is part of the wazwan feast.
- Curry house rogan josh. Usually lamb or chicken with tomatoes, peppers and a medium heat.
How Aamna makes rogan josh
Both of her versions follow the same idea. The meat is marinated in yoghurt, dhania jeera and garlic and ginger paste. Onions are fried slowly in oil and ghee until deep golden, with black and green cardamom, cinnamon, mace and whole fennel, coriander and cumin seeds added part way. Then the meat is seared and simmered with Kashmiri chilli and a teaspoon of hot chilli powder.
- Chicken rogan josh takes about 35 minutes, with bone-in chicken.
- Mutton rogan josh simmers for up to two hours until the meat is falling apart.
Chicken Rogan Josh
A quicker rogan josh made with chicken, coloured deep red with Kashmiri chilli and full of warm, aromatic spices.
Mutton Rogan Josh: A Fiery Journey From the Heart of Kashmir
A Kashmiri mutton curry with yoghurt, ghee and whole spices, coloured deep red with Kashmiri chilli rather than heat.
Rogan josh vs other curries
| Compared with | The difference |
|---|---|
| Korma | Both use yoghurt, but rogan josh is red, spicier and more aromatic. |
| Madras | Madras is hotter and usually tomato-based. Rogan josh is milder and relies on whole spices. |
| Bhuna | A bhuna is fried down until thick and dry. Rogan josh keeps more sauce. See what is bhuna? |
| Balti | A balti is cooked fast on high heat. Rogan josh is slow-cooked. |
If you like rogan josh, you will probably enjoy a dopiaza or a lamb bhuna too.
What to serve with rogan josh
Plain basmati rice or naan to soak up the sauce, with raita and a simple onion salad. For a bigger spread, add Bombay aloo.
Rogan josh FAQs
Is rogan josh spicy?
It is medium. Kashmiri chilli gives the colour with gentle heat, and a little hot chilli powder adds a kick.
Is rogan josh lamb or beef?
Traditionally lamb, mutton or goat. Chicken is a popular quicker version.
Does rogan josh have tomatoes?
The Kashmiri original doesn’t. Many British versions add them for colour and body.
What is rogan josh similar to?
It is closest to a korma in method, since both are braised with yoghurt, but it is redder and more spiced.
What is ratan jot?
The dried root of the alkanet plant, used in Kashmir to colour the oil of rogan josh red.
